How to Minimize Enlarged Pores: BHA, Niacinamide & Exfoliation

March 25, 2026

KoreanCare

Pores cannot truly shrink, but regular exfoliation, oil control, and collagen support make them appear smaller by keeping them clear, reducing surrounding inflammation, and improving skin texture.

The frustrating truth about enlarged pores: you cannot physically make them smaller. Pore size is genetically determined and permanent. However, pores appear larger or smaller depending on: congestion (clogged pores stretch and look bigger), oil production (excess sebum makes pores more visible), surrounding skin texture (loss of collagen and firmness makes pores sag), inflammation (swelling emphasizes pore openings).

This article explains what actually minimizes pore appearance, which ingredients address the factors making pores look enlarged, realistic expectations for improvement, and Korean products that deliver visible pore refinement through proper exfoliation and oil control.

Why Pores Look Enlarged

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Genetics and Skin Type

Pore size is genetically determined. Oily skin naturally has larger visible pores due to active sebaceous glands. Cannot change genetics, but can minimize appearance.

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Excess Sebum Production

Overactive oil glands enlarge pore openings. Sebum fills pores, oxidizes, and becomes visible as blackheads. Controlling oil reduces visual prominence.

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Congestion and Clogging

Dead cells, sebum, debris accumulate in pores. This buildup stretches pore walls making them appear larger. Regular clearing prevents stretching.

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Loss of Elasticity

Aging reduces collagen and elastin. Without structural support, pores sag and elongate. Sun damage accelerates this loss making pores more visible.

The blackhead misconception

Many people believe dark spots in pores are dirt. They're actually sebum oxidized by air exposure (oxidation turns oil dark brown/black), mixed with dead skin cells and debris. This is why "scrubbing" doesn't remove blackheads — they're inside pore, not surface dirt. Proper treatment requires: dissolving the oxidized sebum (BHA), preventing new oxidation (regular clearing), controlling oil production (niacinamide).

Why pores look worse as you age

Youth provides natural pore-minimizing factors: high collagen production keeps skin firm and pores tight, optimal cell turnover prevents dead cell buildup, strong elastin maintains pore structure. With aging: collagen decreases allowing pores to sag and enlarge, cell turnover slows causing more congestion, sun damage destroys elastin making pores lose shape, gravity pulls on skin including pore walls. This is why pores that looked fine in 20s become noticeable in 40s-50s despite same genetics.

Realistic Approach to Pore Minimization

Keep pores clear (exfoliation)

BHA 2x weekly, prevent stretching

Control oil (sebum regulation)

Niacinamide daily, reduce visibility

Support collagen (prevent sagging)

Retinoids, vitamin C long-term

Refine texture (smooth surrounding skin)

AHA weekly, improve overall appearance

Temporary tightening (cosmetic effect)

Astringent toners, clay masks occasional

What works: Evidence-based strategies

BHA (Salicylic Acid): Oil-soluble acid that penetrates pores. Dissolves sebum and dead cells clogging pores, prevents oxidation (blackhead formation), reduces inflammation around pore openings. Use 1-2% concentration 2-3x weekly. Results visible in 4-6 weeks: clearer pores, reduced blackheads, less congestion.

Niacinamide (Vitamin B3): Regulates sebum production (reduces oil without drying), strengthens barrier (healthier skin around pores), reduces inflammation (minimizes pore-emphasizing redness). Use 5-10% daily. Results in 8-12 weeks: less midday oil, pores less visible, improved texture.

Retinoids: Increase cell turnover preventing pore clogging, stimulate collagen providing structural support, normalize oil production, refine overall texture. Use 0.25-1% retinol 3-5x weekly. Results in 12-16 weeks: tighter-looking pores, improved firmness, reduced congestion.

AHA (Glycolic/Lactic Acid): Exfoliates surface removing dead cells before they clog pores, improves surrounding skin texture making pores less noticeable, enhances penetration of other treatments. Use 5-10% 1-2x weekly. Results in 6-8 weeks: smoother skin, refined appearance.

What doesn't work long-term

Pore strips physically pull out sebum plugs but don't address oil production. Pores refill within days to weeks. Repeated use can damage skin and doesn't prevent recurrence. Astringent toners temporarily tighten pores through alcohol or witch hazel but effect lasts hours at most. Daily use dries skin triggering more oil production. Clay masks absorb surface oil and temporarily tighten but don't address underlying causes. Effect wears off as skin produces more sebum. These provide temporary cosmetic improvement but aren't solutions.

Timeline and expectations

4-6 weeks: Blackhead reduction, less congestion, clearer pore appearance (from consistent BHA use). 8-12 weeks: Reduced oil production, visibly smaller-looking pores, improved texture (from niacinamide + exfoliation combination). 3-6 months: Firmer skin around pores, structural improvement, sustained refinement (from retinoids supporting collagen). Realistic improvement: 20-40% visible reduction in pore appearance. Cannot eliminate pores or shrink to invisible, but noticeable refinement making them less prominent.

Korean Products for Pore Minimization

Product	Active Ingredient	Pore Benefit	Frequency
Beauty of Joseon Glow Serum	60% Propolis, 2% Niacinamide, BHA	Oil control, barrier support, gentle exfoliation	Daily AM/PM
COSRX BHA Blackhead Power Liquid	4% Betaine Salicylate (BHA)	Deep pore clearing, oil soluble penetration	2-3x weekly PM
Some By Mi AHA BHA PHA 30 Days Miracle Truecica Clear Pad	AHA, BHA, PHA, Truecica	Multi-acid exfoliation, calming, convenient	Daily or alternate days
COSRX AHA 7 Whitehead Power Liquid	7% Glycolic Acid (AHA)	Surface exfoliation, texture smoothing	1-2x weekly PM

Beauty of Joseon Glow Serum: Propolis + Niacinamide for Pore Care

The Beauty of Joseon Glow Serum combines pore-refining niacinamide with barrier-supporting propolis for comprehensive pore care addressing both oil control and skin health.

60% Propolis Extract: Bee propolis provides anti-inflammatory and antimicrobial benefits reducing inflammation around pores. The high concentration delivers antioxidant protection, supports barrier function, and helps calm irritation that can make pores appear more prominent. Propolis particularly effective for pores combined with active breakouts or inflammation.

2% Niacinamide: Vitamin B3 that regulates sebum production (reducing oil accumulation in pores), strengthens barrier (healthier skin around pore openings), reduces post-inflammatory marks (evening tone making pores less noticeable). The 2% concentration gentle enough for daily use while providing visible oil control benefits over 8-12 weeks.

Betaine Salicylate (BHA): Gentle exfoliating ingredient providing mild pore-clearing action. Works synergistically with niacinamide to keep pores clear while controlling new oil production.

Usage for pore care: Apply 2-3 drops after cleansing and toner, morning and evening. The lightweight serum texture absorbs quickly without greasiness. Particularly suitable for oily and combination skin with enlarged pores and occasional congestion. After 6-8 weeks consistent use: reduced midday oil, less visible pore congestion, improved overall texture. The gentle multi-ingredient approach provides pore refinement without aggressive exfoliation, making it suitable for those building tolerance to acids or preferring gentler treatment.

COSRX BHA Blackhead Power Liquid: Targeted Pore Clearing

The COSRX BHA Blackhead Power Liquid delivers oil-soluble exfoliation penetrating pores to dissolve sebum plugs and prevent blackhead formation.

4% Betaine Salicylate (BHA): Gentler derivative of salicylic acid providing similar pore-clearing benefits with less irritation. BHA is oil-soluble (unlike water-soluble AHA), meaning it penetrates through sebum into pores, dissolves oxidized oil and dead cell buildup, reduces inflammation, prevents bacterial growth. The 4% betaine salicylate roughly equivalent to 2% salicylic acid in effectiveness.

Willow Bark Water base: Natural source of salicylic acid compounds. Provides additional gentle exfoliation and anti-inflammatory benefit. The water base (not alcohol) prevents excessive drying while delivering active ingredient.

Why BHA specifically for pores: AHA works on surface but cannot penetrate oil-filled pores. BHA's oil-solubility allows it to enter pore, break down sebum plug from inside, clear blockage preventing stretching. This is why BHA called "blackhead" treatment — directly addresses oil-based pore congestion.

Usage protocol: Apply to clean dry skin 2-3x weekly in evening (Monday/Wednesday/Friday pattern works well). Dispense few drops, spread thin layer across areas with visible pores (typically T-zone, cheeks). Wait 10-15 minutes before continuing routine (allows BHA to work at optimal pH). Follow with hydrating products and moisturizer. Start 1x weekly if new to acids, increase to 2-3x as tolerated. Expected results: Week 2-3 notice blackheads beginning to clear, Week 4-6 significant reduction in congestion, Week 8-12 visibly refined pore appearance, less midday oil accumulation.

Important notes: Purging normal first 2-4 weeks as BHA brings existing congestion to surface. Temporary increase in small bumps or blackheads before clearing. If severe irritation or worsening beyond 4 weeks, reduce frequency. Don't combine with retinoids same night initially — alternate evenings.

Some By Mi AHA BHA PHA 30 Days Miracle Truecica Clear Pad

The Some By Mi AHA BHA PHA 30 Days Miracle Truecica Clear Pad from the Some By Mi collection combines three acid types with calming ingredients in convenient pre-soaked pad format.

Triple acid system: AHA (glycolic/lactic acid) exfoliates surface removing dead cells, BHA (salicylic acid) penetrates pores clearing sebum and preventing blackheads, PHA (gluconolactone) provides gentle exfoliation with hydrating properties. The combination addresses pore concerns from multiple angles: surface texture (AHA), internal clearing (BHA), gentle support (PHA).

Truecica (Centella derivatives): Calming complex preventing irritation from acid combination. Allows more frequent use than acids alone would permit. Particularly beneficial for those concerned about acid sensitivity but needing pore treatment.

Textured pad format: One side embossed for physical gentle exfoliation, other side smooth for toning. The pad convenience eliminates measuring, ensures consistent product amount, provides slight mechanical exfoliation enhancing chemical action, individually sealed preserving freshness.

Usage flexibility: Can use daily if skin tolerates (the calming ingredients support frequent use), or every other day, or 2-3x weekly depending on sensitivity. After cleansing, swipe embossed side across skin focusing on pore-prone areas, flip and use smooth side for final pass. Don't rinse — leave acids on skin to work. Follow with hydrating serum and moisturizer. The "30 Days Miracle" marketing suggests noticeable improvement within month of consistent use — realistic for pore refinement if used properly.

Best for: Those wanting comprehensive acid treatment without buying multiple products, people who struggle with liquid acid application (pads foolproof), skin that tolerates acids well (combination of three types is relatively strong), oily acne-prone skin with prominent pores and congestion. Not ideal for very sensitive or dry skin where triple acid may overwhelm despite calming ingredients.

COSRX AHA 7 Whitehead Power Liquid: Surface Texture Refinement

The COSRX AHA 7 Whitehead Power Liquid complements BHA treatment by addressing surface texture that makes pores more visible.

7% Glycolic Acid: Smallest molecular size of AHA providing effective exfoliation. Works on skin surface removing dead cells, smoothing rough texture, improving overall refinement making pores less noticeable against smoother background. The 7% concentration effective without being unnecessarily harsh (8-10% professional strength, 5-7% optimal for home use).

Apple Water and Hyaluronic Acid base: Apple water provides vitamins and additional gentle acids. Hyaluronic acid prevents excessive drying from glycolic acid treatment. This hydrating base allows effective exfoliation without compromising barrier.

AHA vs BHA for pores: BHA penetrates pores clearing from inside (direct blackhead treatment). AHA works on surface creating smoother texture that makes pores less visually prominent (indirect improvement). For optimal results, use both: BHA 2-3x weekly for pore clearing, AHA 1-2x weekly for texture refinement. Don't use same night — alternate evenings.

Usage for pore-refining: Apply to clean dry skin 1-2x weekly in evening on nights NOT using BHA. Spread thin layer, wait 10-15 minutes, continue routine. Glycolic acid increases photosensitivity so evening application crucial and must use SPF daily following morning. Results timeline: 3-4 weeks notice smoother texture, 6-8 weeks visible pore refinement as surrounding skin becomes more even, 12+ weeks continued improvement with sustained use. The effect is cumulative — each application builds on previous ones gradually refining skin surface.

Realistic expectations: AHA alone won't dramatically shrink pores. However, combination of BHA clearing pores + AHA smoothing surrounding texture + niacinamide controlling oil = comprehensive approach delivering noticeable refinement. Think of it as: BHA addresses pores directly, AHA makes skin smoother so pores blend in better, niacinamide reduces oil making pores less visible. All three together create optimal pore-minimizing routine.

Pore Minimization: Clear, Control, Support

Pores cannot physically shrink but appear smaller by addressing factors making them look enlarged: Congestion and clogging (dead cells + sebum stretch pore walls, regular clearing prevents this). Excess oil production (sebum fills pores making them more visible, controlling oil reduces prominence). Loss of collagen and elasticity (aging causes pores to sag and elongate, supporting structure prevents worsening). Inflammation (swelling emphasizes pore openings, calming reduces visibility). Realistic expectations: 20-40% improvement in pore appearance, cannot eliminate or make invisible, but noticeable refinement over 3-6 months consistent treatment.

Evidence-based strategies: BHA/salicylic acid 1-2% 2-3x weekly (oil-soluble penetrates pores, dissolves sebum and dead cells, prevents blackheads, clears congestion from inside, results in 4-6 weeks). Niacinamide 5-10% daily (regulates sebum reducing oil, strengthens barrier, reduces inflammation, results in 8-12 weeks). Retinoids 0.25-1% 3-5x weekly (increases cell turnover preventing clogging, stimulates collagen for structural support, normalizes oil, results in 12-16 weeks). AHA 5-10% 1-2x weekly (exfoliates surface, smooths surrounding texture making pores less noticeable, results in 6-8 weeks). What doesn't work long-term: pore strips (temporary removal, refill quickly), astringent toners (hours-long tightening only), clay masks (surface oil absorption, no prevention).

Korean products for pore care: Beauty of Joseon Glow Serum (60% propolis + 2% niacinamide + BHA for oil control and barrier support, gentle multi-ingredient approach, use AM/PM daily). COSRX BHA Blackhead Power Liquid (4% betaine salicylate penetrates pores clearing sebum and blackheads, use 2-3x weekly PM, expect clearing in 4-6 weeks). Some By Mi AHA BHA PHA Truecica Clear Pad (triple acid comprehensive treatment + centella calming, convenient pad format, use daily or alternate days depending on tolerance). COSRX AHA 7 Whitehead Power Liquid (7% glycolic acid surface exfoliation smoothing texture, use 1-2x weekly PM on non-BHA nights, improves pore visibility through texture refinement). Combination approach: BHA clears pores directly + AHA smooths surrounding skin + niacinamide controls oil = optimal comprehensive pore-minimizing routine.

Frequently Asked Questions

Can I permanently shrink my pores?

No — pore size is genetically determined and cannot be permanently changed with topical products. Pores are openings to sebaceous glands, and their size relates to how active those glands are (determined by genetics and hormones). However, you can make pores APPEAR significantly smaller through: keeping them clear (preventing stretching from congestion), controlling oil (reducing visual prominence), supporting collagen (preventing age-related sagging), refining surrounding texture (making pores less noticeable). Think of it like this: cannot change the drain hole in your sink (fixed size), but can keep it clean and unclogged so it looks smaller, and maintain the surrounding surface so hole isn't emphasized. Similarly with pores: cannot change actual opening size, but can dramatically improve appearance through proper care. Professional treatments provide more dramatic temporary results: laser treatments stimulate collagen tightening pore walls (lasts 6-12 months, requires maintenance), microneedling creates controlled injury triggering repair including pore tightening (similar duration), chemical peels provide intensive exfoliation (temporary improvement), professional extractions clear deep congestion (needs regular repeating). Even these don't permanently shrink pores — they provide temporary improvement requiring ongoing maintenance. Topical skincare realistic goal: 20-40% visible reduction in pore appearance with sustained use. This is meaningful improvement even if not "perfect" result.

Should I use AHA and BHA together or separately?

Start separately, can combine once tolerance established. Initial approach for new users: use BHA 2x weekly (Monday/Thursday) for pore clearing, use AHA 1x weekly (Saturday) for texture refinement, keep other 4 nights free for skin recovery and non-acid treatments. This separation allows: judging individual product efficacy (if see improvement, know which product responsible), preventing excessive irritation from combining strong acids initially, building tolerance to each acid type independently. After 4-6 weeks tolerating both acids well: can try using same night (apply BHA first since oil-soluble, wait 5-10 minutes, then AHA, wait 10-15 minutes, continue routine — this is advanced technique requiring resilient skin), or increase frequency while keeping separate (BHA 3x weekly, AHA 2x weekly on different nights — still separated but more total acid exposure), or use combination products designed with both (Some By Mi pads, other AHA+BHA formulations balanced for simultaneous use). However, many people find separation works better long-term: BHA on Monday/Wednesday/Friday focusing on pore clearing, AHA on Sunday for weekly intensive exfoliation, leaves Tuesday/Thursday/Saturday for retinoid or recovery. Benefits of keeping separate: less irritation risk (each acid gets its own night allowing full pH optimization), easier to adjust frequency individually (can use more BHA if congestion worsens without increasing AHA), clearer cause-effect understanding (if irritation develops, know which acid responsible). Only combine same night if: skin very resilient and tolerant, tried separation and want more aggressive approach, using products specifically formulated for combination (balanced pH and concentration for simultaneous use).

Why are my pores only large on my nose and cheeks?

Sebaceous gland distribution varies across face. Nose and cheeks have highest concentration of oil glands, making pores naturally more prominent in these areas. The T-zone (forehead, nose, chin) particularly oil-rich even in otherwise dry or combination skin. Additionally: nose pores subject to more mechanical stress (frequent touching, glasses pressure, nose-blowing), cheek pores affected by sleeping position (side sleepers often notice enlarged pores on cheek they sleep on), sun exposure uneven (cheeks and nose often get more UV than forehead, accelerating collagen loss and pore sagging in these areas). This zone-specific prominence is completely normal — most people experience it. Treatment approach: focus acid treatments on affected areas (don't need to apply BHA to entire face if only nose/cheeks have enlarged pores), use targeted application (cotton swab or finger to press product into pore-heavy zones rather than all-over application wasting product), consider zone-specific routine (T-zone might need BHA 3x weekly while cheeks need only 1-2x weekly — customize frequency by area). Some people successfully use: mattifying primer on nose and T-zone (temporarily blurs pore appearance for cosmetic improvement during day), clay mask only on nose/chin (15-20 minute treatment weekly absorbing excess oil from most congested areas), blotting papers throughout day (removing excess oil before it settles into pores and oxidizes). Don't try to make these areas match less-porous parts of face — not realistic goal. Instead, optimize these zones to be their best version: clear, oil-controlled, refined within their natural characteristics.

Is it safe to extract blackheads at home?

Risky and generally not recommended — easy to cause damage outweighing benefits. Professional extractions performed by trained esthetician or dermatologist safer because: they properly assess what's extractable (not all bumps should be extracted), use sterile tools and proper technique, perform after professional exfoliation softening plugs, apply appropriate aftercare preventing infection and inflammation. DIY extraction risks: pushing bacteria deeper causing cyst formation, scarring from excessive force or incorrect angle, broken capillaries from squeezing, post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation (dark marks lasting months), enlarged pores from repeated trauma and stretching, infection from non-sterile tools or touching with dirty hands. IF attempting at-home extraction (with full awareness of risks): perform only after hot shower or warm compress (5-10 minutes softening plugs), ensure hands and any tools sanitized with alcohol, use gentle pressure only (if doesn't release easily within 5 seconds gentle pressure, stop — forcing will cause damage), extract only true blackheads (dark oxidized plugs visibly protruding) not closed comedones or whiteheads (these cannot be extracted by squeezing), apply BHA treatment immediately after (prevents refilling and reduces inflammation), limit to small area and few extractions (not entire face in one session). Better alternatives to manual extraction: consistent BHA use (dissolves plugs from inside over weeks, no trauma), regular professional facials (monthly or quarterly extractions by trained professional), clay masks (draw out surface congestion gently), double cleansing with oil cleanser (gradually loosens plugs through daily cleansing). Many blackheads that seem extraction-appropriate actually sebaceous filaments (normal oil production that refills immediately after extraction — not worth extracting). BHA treatment addresses these more effectively long-term than repeated extraction.

Do niacinamide products really reduce pore size?

Yes, but through oil control and barrier strengthening not physical pore shrinkage. Niacinamide's pore-minimizing effects: regulates sebum production (studies show 5-10% niacinamide reduces oil by 30-50% over 8-12 weeks, less oil in pores means less visible prominence), strengthens barrier (improved barrier function means less inflammation and swelling around pore openings), improves elasticity slightly (supports collagen and elastin providing subtle firming of pore walls), reduces post-inflammatory marks (evens tone around pores making them less noticeable against clearer background). The mechanism: niacinamide doesn't physically constrict pores, instead addresses factors making pores APPEAR large. Research backing: multiple clinical studies show 5% niacinamide applied twice daily for 12 weeks significantly reduces appearance of enlarged pores as assessed by participant self-reports and photographic analysis, the improvement correlates with reduced sebum production and improved skin texture. Realistic timeline: weeks 1-4 minimal visible change (oil reduction beginning but not yet dramatic), weeks 6-8 noticeable decrease in midday shine and slightly refined appearance, weeks 10-12 clear improvement in pore visibility and overall texture, 4-6 months maximum benefit with continued use. Concentration matters: 2-3% provides some benefit but may be insufficient for significant pore improvement, 5% is sweet spot (proven effective, well-tolerated), 10% may provide slightly better results but increases irritation risk for some people, above 10% shows minimal additional benefit and risks flushing/irritation. Product choice: dedicated niacinamide serum provides highest concentration for targeted pore treatment, moisturizers with niacinamide support but may not contain sufficient % for dramatic pore improvement, toners with niacinamide good for maintenance but often lower concentration. For best pore-minimizing results: use 5-10% niacinamide serum twice daily, combine with BHA for pore clearing (niacinamide prevents new oil accumulation, BHA clears existing congestion — synergistic effect), give 12 weeks minimum before judging efficacy.

Can makeup make pores worse?

Yes, if using wrong products or not removing properly. How makeup worsens pores: silicone-heavy primers and foundations settle into pores emphasizing them, not removing makeup thoroughly leaves residue clogging pores overnight, using expired or contaminated products introduces bacteria, applying makeup over active breakouts or congestion pushes debris deeper. However, makeup doesn't inherently cause pore problems — proper products and removal prevent issues. Makeup tips for pore-prone skin: use non-comedogenic products (labeled won't clog pores — though this isn't regulated claim, brands formulating for acne-prone skin typically safer), choose powder or mineral foundation over heavy liquid (lighter formulas less likely to settle in pores and clog), avoid pore-filling primers daily (these create smooth surface for photos but can clog with regular use — save for special occasions), set makeup with powder (absorbs excess oil preventing migration into pores). Most important: thorough removal every night. Double cleansing essential for makeup wearers: oil cleanser dissolves makeup and sunscreen, water cleanser removes residual cleanser and remaining debris, missing this step almost guarantees makeup-related pore congestion. Sleeping in makeup single worst thing for pores — overnight accumulation blocks pores, prevents skin renewal, triggers inflammation. Signs makeup worsening pores: increased blackheads or closed comedones, breakouts primarily on makeup-wearing areas (face but not neck/chest), pores looking more congested despite skincare routine, makeup looking worse over time as pore congestion increases. If experiencing this: simplify makeup routine temporarily (minimal coverage products only), double check removing completely every night (if cotton pad after cleansing shows color, not clean enough), consider makeup-free days allowing skin to breathe and recover, reassess product choices (switch to lighter formulations designed for oily/congested skin). Many people successfully wear full makeup daily without pore issues by: using appropriate products, ensuring thorough evening removal, maintaining BHA treatment preventing buildup, giving skin occasional makeup-free days.

About the Author

KoreanCare

KoreanCare is an online store that sells authentic Korean skincare, sourced directly from South Korea. We write about the ingredients, routines, and products we actually use and believe in — nothing more, nothing less. Every product mentioned in this article has been tested and selected for specific formulation qualities, ingredient concentrations, and proven results. No sponsorships, no affiliate links — just honest analysis based on years of experience with Korean skincare.

Last Updated: March 2026

Related Collections: Some By Mi, Niacinamide, Enlarged Pores

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